These days, when I dream of dessert, I dream of the caramel profiteroles at L’Ormeau restaurant in Cancale. Sure, the rest of the food at Christophe and Julie Wasser’s restaurant is some of the best you’ll find in Cancale, but those profiteroles are what make me swoon. I think it’s that they truly taste of caramel – not just of cooked sugar. It takes a confident pastry chef to cook sugar to its darkest deliciousness – beyond the pale amber nothing-but-caramel-color, but not quite to the bitter burnt sugar mahogany. And to do it TWICE – for the caramel ice cream and the caramel sauce in the profiteroles. Well, that’s confidence and genius.