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Bring Back Le Bricolin!

Long before kale got its cult following in France, Brittany had le bricolin. Also called cow or rabbit cabbage (chou à vache, chou à lapin) because it was mostly grown to fee [...]

2021-04-19T14:01:11-04:000 Comments

Sautéed Sea Beets (Wild Spinach)

On a gray low-light winter day, the only thing that stood out on my regular walk were the deep green tufts of sea beets that cluster around a certain curve of the coast. The [...]

2021-03-17T13:30:25-04:000 Comments

Caramelized Fennel and Carrot Soup

Fennel is a vegetable I find hard to describe to those not familiar with it. The term ‘anise-flavored’ is often used, but I think that sounds like more of a turn-off to most [...]

2021-04-19T14:32:54-04:000 Comments

Butternut Squash Spoonbread

This is one of those recipes that defied all my hopes and expectations—mainly because I defied just about everything I read about how to make it online. While doodling around [...]

2022-01-16T11:40:26-05:000 Comments

Basic French Potage

If there is one French recipe that everyone in the whole wide world should learn to make, it is potage, the blended vegetable soup that was once the start to every supper in [...]

2021-03-17T13:30:27-04:004 Comments

Persian Cucumber Soup with Mint

I have been making this soup for exactly twenty years. Exactly. How do I know this? Because I made my first version for it during the 1998 World Cup (when France also won). I [...]

2021-04-20T10:06:57-04:001 Comment

Elodie’s (Easy) Tian

The tians (pronounced tee-ahn) I’ve tasted in France have all been simple, meltingly tender swirls, rows, or stacks of summer vegetables cooked with some garlic, a few herbs [...]

2021-03-17T13:30:28-04:000 Comments

Preserved Lemons

Most preserved lemon recipes call for cutting the lemons almost into quarters, stuffing the centers with salt, then squeezing the lemons into jars. I made them this way for m [...]

2023-04-22T15:50:37-04:000 Comments
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