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Warming Winter Squash Soup

The black bean-garlic sauce (a staple Chinese stir-fry ingredient) gives it a rich, fermented, salty element that tames the squash’s sweetness, while the puffed rice cereal a [...]

2024-02-05T07:47:59-05:000 Comments

Leek Condiment

Weird name, I know. But I’ve kept it because it’s the closest translation to the original created by Ryoko Sekiguchi then popularized by François-Régis Baudry, host of the  t [...]

2023-03-28T01:53:42-04:000 Comments

Soizic’s Cheese Soufflé

I remember the first time Soizic, my apartment mate in Rennes said she was going to make a cheese soufflé. It was a dark winter evening and there was nothing much in the kitc [...]

2023-02-08T02:03:06-05:000 Comments

Velvet Scallops

When I first read about velveting scallops in Grace Young’s fabulous cookbook, Stir-Frying to the Sky’s Edge, the promise of ‘luxuriously smooth and dense’ scallops made me t [...]

2023-02-06T07:39:58-05:000 Comments

Zucchini Pickles

After polishing off the better part of a friend’s jar of zucchini pickles all by myself, I set about to make my own. Hers were a touch too sweet for my taste, so I halved the [...]

2021-09-16T02:53:32-04:000 Comments

Mussels in Escabeche Sauce

What do you do with an extra bowlful of mussels after everyone’s eaten his/her fill? (When Mont-Saint-Michel Bay mussels are in season (July – January), leftover mussels are [...]

2021-09-14T06:39:08-04:000 Comments

Cooking Quince, Made Easy

Quince can be a hard sell because…well, everything about quince is hard. The fruit itself isn’t just firm, like a pumpkin. It is dense and murder-weapon hard. (It could easil [...]

2021-04-19T10:24:41-04:006 Comments

What to Do with Sour Milk

I have been dallying with the concept of cooking with sour milk since reading this line from food writer Laurie Colwin’s essay ‘About Biscuits’ many years ago: ‘I have made [ [...]

2022-01-16T11:42:49-05:009 Comments

Prasopita (Spanakopita with Leeks)

Here’s a new Greek food term for you (well, for me): Prasopita. Leek (praso) pie (pita). I found it while googling ‘spanakopita with leeks’—which is what I’d just made using [...]

2021-04-19T14:11:58-04:000 Comments
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